Wool is warm and good in cooler climates. You calculate square inches by multiplying the width by length. Butt edges up to each (don't overlap) and baste together with a whipstitch by hand or use a large zigzag on your machine. This is a close up of the Quilting Safety Pins that we use. Quilt Top The top layer of a quilt Sandwich. Make sure your batting is larger than the quilt top. Be sure to place it within the boundaries of the quilt top not the backing or it may end up half on and half off the quilt when finished. (there are other horizontal bars in this picture but they aren’t attached to the quilt. Next the batting goes down with no wrinkles. The more space you give around the edge of the quilt the easier it’s going to be for the longarm quilter to attach it to the longarm quilting machine. After you have your size and materials mapped out, it’s time to start thinking about your design. Stitch. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. I would not choose to do it this way again because of the stiffness. That type of binding is not as durable as double-fold binding but is an option for quilts that won't receive heavy use. Now let’s talk backs. Completed quilt top Batting Backing Fabric Tape (painters or masking) Safety pins large, clean hard surface If you've acquired a quilt top and want to finish and display it, the process of adding batting requires a bit of effort, but the end result will be worthwhile. Happy Quilting! Painter’s tape Flatter smoothing spray or some type of starch. With a sit-down machine you can get along with only a couple of extra inches all around the quilt. Your backing should also be pressed especially if it is heavily wrinkled. It is much heavier and a bit stiffer in terms of drape. 2. (8” total. Say that your pieced quilt top is 40” x 60”. Ask your quilter -- she might want more. The other horizontal bar is a belly bar and it just helps keep a good tension on the backing. Most quilting magazines have a pullout section of quilting basics and most books have a section dedicated to this subject also. This is a personal decision based on the finished look you want to achieve. Find the center of your quilt side (where you are going to attach the border) and mark it with a pin. For this project you will need 1 ¼ yards of fabric for the back. This is a fact that you may have never crossed your mind. At the same time, if you're adding a lot of stitches to the quilt top, the quilt will shrink up a bit, too. We ask for 8" larger, which is outlined at Quilting Services Process. Of course, if you are binding a smaller quilt, you should adjust the size of your rulers to fit the project. Here you see examples of what it looks like to have it too small and how the quilting machine doesn’t have room to work. Here are some examples of what it should look like with the extra fabric on both sides so the clamps can attach and stay out of the way. Seams should be pressed open and lie flat. It is best to start with a quilt block. If I get a quilt in and see the backing is not big enough I can add muslin to the edges so that I can load it into the machine, I will charge extra for that obviously and I will not guarantee that none of the muslin shows on the edges of the quilt after trimming. If your quilt is larger than the table, be sure the top and one side are aligned with the edges, clamp around and baste what is on the surface. So if your quilt top measures 50″ x 50″, your backing must be at least 58″ x 58″. Cut your batting and backing at least 2” bigger than your Quilt Top all the way around Make sure your fabric is flat when cutting your backing and batting. Example of measuring batting from a previous Quilt Along: The batting should be several inches larger than the quilt top all the way around. As you quilt the presser foot actually pushes the quilt top out a bit further. Then, if youre planning to quilt the project yourself, youll baste the layers together, using thread if youll be hand quilting or safety pins if youll be machine quilting. The batting should be larger than the top to account for any shrinking of the top due to quilting. This is because the batting is held on the machine by rolling it onto a bar/roller. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download. I cannot stress this enough! Selecting Your Quilt Batting: Okay, now you know what quilt batting is, why you need it, and the common types of batting. Trim all edges even when finished sewing pieces together. By visiting our site, you agree to our privacy policy regarding cookies, tracking statistics, etc. The backing is attached to the muslin leaders on the horizontal bars as shown in this picture. Prepare and press the quilt backing. Your backing and batting should be at least 3" larger on each side than your quilt top. Lay the backing fabric right side down on your work surface. Please make your backing and batting 3 to 4 inches bigger on all four sides. And this last image shows what it looks like if you have plenty of backing fabric at the bottom also. But it also means that same quilt could be stiff if you added lots of quilting to it thanks to the batting’s stable properties. I know if you are quilting by hand or on a domestic sewing machine you don’t have to have the backing and the batting larger because you’re pinning the layers together, you don’t have it attached to the machine itself like we do with the longarm. Crib-Size Quilt Batting. High loft means ¾” - 1” thick and will be great for thicker comforters and blankets—anything you want to make warmer with the extra thickness of the batting. Bigger is OK but it should not be smaller. **We use Warm and Natural Batting. Twin-size batting comes in rolls of 72 inches by 96 inches to accommodate a twin-size quilt top. At this point you could baste the layers together, but I prefer pinning. Consider the Seam Allowance For example, the lap-size top is 45″ x 66″. I can always trim the batting if it is too large but harder to make it bigger if too small, although I have pieced batting together as needed with satisfactory results it is always best to do that before sending it to the longarm quilter. One of the big things that people always hear from the longarm quilter – I must have the backing 3 to 4 inches bigger than the quilt top on all 4 sides. They are curved which make it easier to pin Especially if you are loading it lengthwise. You can get away with minimal quilting while still having a quilt that won’t fall apart after the first wash. For example:  your 3 measurements equal 70 down the middle and 70 1/2 on each side of that, cut your border strip 70 1/4. You'll need enough pins to put one every 4-5 inches all over the quilt. fold back the top and batting and smooth the back into place. To pin baste the quilt layers: 1. You should also press open any seam allowances in the backing. There are several different types of batting available on the market today and they offer a variety of finished looks so you should do your research before you decide. Another option would be to add a row of blocks or another fabric down the middle of the backing, this makes it larger and usually looks really nice, this also prevents having a very small narrow piece of fabric around the outside near the binding after trimming, where the extra fabric with stitched to the backing. If you start out with a backing that is the same size or just a little bit bigger than the top you don’t leave room to attach it and still quilt the whole quilt. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! I quilted it with a medium to large meander so the quilting is not the reason for the stiffness. So 3 to 4 inches more on the top and 3 to 4 inches more on the bottom than the quilt top is absolutely necessary just to get it loaded on the machine. Make sure your backing and batting are larger than your quilt top. Unclamp everything and readjust the quilt so that unbasted areas are now on top of the table. (They both just need to be a few inches larger on all sides than the quilt top.) Let’s take a look at how a longarm quilting machine works. The sides should be trimmed evenly and square (no jagged edges or sections that are longer than other sections). ake sure your back fabric is facing out. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Tools for trimming a quilt to prepare it for binding. The backing needs to be at least 3” bigger than the quilt top on all four sides because of these leaders and clamps. Did you know that the thickness of your batting determines how much larger than your quilt top, the length of your batting should be cut? That depends on a couple of important questions. Low loft batting is thinner and shows off the quilting stitches. They typically have three horizontal bars (some have 4) two of them are what the backing is attached to, bottom and top. Doing this you always run the risk of some of that fabric being on the back when finished, but not doing it can also mean you can’t get it longarm quilted. They should be roughly the same size. Most longarmers ask for a backing that is 8-10" larger than the quilt top in each direction, which provides 4-5" of excess backing all the way around the quilt. The quilt sandwich consists of backing, batting, and the quilt top. Example, your quilt top measures 60" x 80" therefore your backing and batting should each measure 66" x 86". High loft batting is thicker and fluffier, usually polyester and used more often for tied quilts. I do my best to enhance your quilt but the real magic begins at home with you the sewer. Your backing and batting should be at least 3" larger on each side than your quilt top. To complete the sandwich, youll quilt Your backing was all ready to go for home quilting. Read more. The batting also needs to be larger than the top but not larger than the backing. I receive a small monetary compensation for any purchases you might make thru links on my site. Use scissors to trim long stray threads. 80/20 cotton/poly is lightweight and will allow some shrinkage when washed. Trimming threads, pressing seams, measuring & cutting borders all go a long way in helping turn your quilt top into a lasting heirloom to be enjoyed by many generations. As you sew on multiple borders your quilt will need to be remeasured before starting a new set. Yes, this is not a problem for me. No matter what, your backing MUST BE 4-6″ larger than your quilt top, on ALL sides. 100% Polyester is lightweight and will keep that smooth polished look even after it's washed (particularly if you pre-wash your fabrics). If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. 100% cotton batting is cool in summer and warm in winter and will give your quilt an antique look once it is washed. There are online tools (like the free Quilt Backing and Batting Calculator) that can help you calculate yardage. Secure the backing fabric to the surface at regular intervals. I found minky at the thrift store for a couple dollars that is a perfect match. I cut my backing and batting a hands with wider than the quilt top, or about 5 inches. Your pieced quilt top, backing (pieced to fit, if needed), and batting (backing and batting is at least 4 inches larger than your quilt top on all 4 sides). How much do you want to see the quilting design? Example, your quilt top measures 60" x 80" therefore your backing and batting should each measure 66" x 86". That means your backing should be at least 6" to 8" wider and taller than your quilt top, more if you prefer (and even more backing) to fold it and bring it to the front of the quilt to create a self-binding. *LOL*  Unfortunately no we are not. And lets. It just sticks out past the quilt top barely a half inch. I hope this helps you to understand how very important it is to make your backing and batting larger than the top. I know if you are quilting by hand or on a domestic sewing machine you don’t have to have the backing and the batting larger because you’re pinning the layers together, you don’t have it attached to the machine itself like we do with the longarm. To determine how much backing fabric you need, keep in mind that all sides of a quilt back should be at least 4″ longer than your quilt top. In this first of a series of blog posts I would like to address some questions that I’ve heard people ask about long arm quilting. Do the same for the border fabric. Should I press my quilt top and back prior to having it quilted? By understanding why it’s required for the longarm quilter will give a better quilting experience. Your batting will be 2” longer and wider on each side, so adding 4” to each measure makes your batting size 44” x 64”. You want your batting to be larger than your quilt top (front) by about 4″ bigger than the length and height and slightly smaller than your quilt back. One of the big things that people always hear from the longarm quilter – I must have the backing 3 to 4 inches bigger than the quilt top on all 4 sides. Try to avoid placing the pins where you'll be stitching. This measurement would then be multipied by the price per square inch (ppsi) to calculate the cost of machine quilting before thread, batting and tax are added on. ! For example if your quilt measures 60" wide by 72" long then it would be equal to 4320 square inches. Kind of confusing, right? Pin your border to your quilt working outward from the center to the ends. First, youll cut the backing 4 to 6 longer and wider than the quilt top. Example – 60” x … You can learn more about batting in this article I wrote here. Just follow the 6" bigger or 8" bigger rule. It should be pressed and free of wrinkles. No, I need to load each layer onto my machine separately so they should remain apart. You don't want to add fabric in a way that will look awkward. In other words the backing should be the biggest. Definitely, it is actually best if you press as you sew on your quilt top and then give it a final pressing when finished. As for your batting and backing, they should be both cut 6-8 inches larger than the quilt top. The top is then placed onto the batting and basted along the top and sides. 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